DAYTON EATS: New deli opening will bring classic dishes to town

Credit: Natalie Jones

Credit: Natalie Jones

Katz’s, Carnegie, Manny’s, Second Avenue, Corky and Lenny’s.

For those that know, it’s a list of greats. These are just a few of the names of classic delicatessens that have made, and make mouths water.

With the recent announcement that All the Best Delicatessen is on the verge of opening in Washington Township and their menu unveiled earlier this week on their website (allthebestdeli.com), it’s a time to celebrate. Especially considering that owner Lee Schear is bringing what he considers the best of the best from across the country to Dayton.

The deli’s ingredient “map” is complex with Schear’s favorites sourced from across the county ... smoked fish from Brooklyn, corned beef and pastrami from Detroit, chopped chicken liver “inspired by” Zabar’s in Manhattan, rugelach from Cincinnati, and even rye bread from Dorothy Lane Market, right here at home.

Credit: Submitted Photo

Credit: Submitted Photo

Sure we have some deli options here in town, but not the kind that serve up nostalgic classics that New York Delis were known for like a large variety of smoked fish options or a chopped liver or tongue sandwich that have all but disappeared from menus. This is a deli menu that is steeped in tradition and steps back in time to draw its inspiration and roots from food history.

Like so many local deli lovers I have longed at times for a spot to devour a knish, for a place that I can pair a traditional potato pancake with a sandwich stuffed with simple ingredients that delivers with big flavors. A spot with soups galore including cold or hot beet borscht topped with sour cream. A place with chopped liver — a savory, rich and wonderful traditional Jewish dish that is a staple menu item on all of the classic best known delis in the states — and chicken and matzo ball soup that you can pair with a classic Reuben sandwich.

Credit: Natalie Jones

Credit: Natalie Jones

The deli section of our grocery stores has its roots in 18th century Germany where the first iteration of delis began popping up. In the 19th century Jewish immigrants began establishing family-owned delis that became a part of the dining culture of major cities in the northeast — most notably New York.

But the deli section of a grocery store is no true deli. You have to purchase the ingredients to make a triple decker pastrami and corned beef sandwich on seeded rye topped with Swiss cheese, Russian dressing and cole slaw and what you can source in a local grocery store will never top what can be found in the best delis across the country.

With the addition of All the Best Delicatessen, that old-world deli experience and throwback menu will be within reach. And not just for dining in, the deli counter will offer deli cut meats, cheeses, pickles and olives sold by the pound for meals at home, as well as an array of salads and classic deli desserts like cheesecake, black and white cookies, seven-layer cake, rugelach and chocolate babka. Larger party platters will also be available for purchase.

The press release that was sent spoke to the amount of research and ingredient sourcing that went into this venture: “One man, obsessed with delis, created a team to visit many of the major delis in the U.S. to determine what the perfect mix of recipes, ingredients and atmosphere is.” Sounds like a winning concept to me.

Credit: Submitted Photo

Credit: Submitted Photo

The ingredient list tells the story: Their fish is no ordinary catch; it’s sourced from the renowned Acme Fish Company in Brooklyn, NY. Their frankfurter and salami will come from Vienna Beef in Chicago. The corned beef, soft pastrami, brisket and tongue is sourced from Sy Ginsberg’s Meat & Deli in Detroit. Matzo Balls will come from Brooklyn, New York’s Matzo Project. Ohio companies supplying dishes and ingredients include Cleveland’s Davis Bakery (coconut bars, tea cookies), Herman’s Pickles in Garettsville, Ohio and locally Rachael Bakes which will be responsible for the cheesecakes and seven-layer cakes.

Until it opens later this month at 5940 Far Hills Ave., here is a list of some of my other favorite deli spots in town to keep you in delicious stacked sandwiches packed with flavor.

Credit: Photo by Amelia Robinson

Credit: Photo by Amelia Robinson

Canal Street Arcade and Deli

308 E. First St., Dayton

canalstreetarcadeanddeli.weebly.com

Charlie’s Deli & Catering

429 Troy St., Dayton

charliedeliandcatering.com

DiSalvo’s Deli and Italian Store

1383 East Stroop Rd., Kettering

disalvosdeli.com

Flyboy’s Deli

2515 Far Hills Ave., Dayton

219 N Patterson Blvd., Dayton

flyboysdeli.com

The Gourmet Deli

32 Webster St., Dayton

topofmarket.com/the-gourmet-deli

Jerardi’s Little Store

7325 Peters Pike, Dayton

jerardislittlestore.com

Tony and Pete’s Groceries and Coldcuts

129 E Third St., Dayton

tonyandpetes.com

DAYTON EATS runs Sundays in the Life & Arts section of the Dayton Daily News and features the latest on menu updates, special dinners and events, new chefs, interesting new dishes, and food adventures. Contact Contributing Writer Alexis Larsen at alexis.e.larsen@hotmail.com.

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